Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
